Skin Barrier Repair
Our skin is our shield from the environment. It protects us against physical damage, harmful bacteria/viruses, UV rays, chemical exposure, dehydration, pollution and environmental toxins. When our shield is broken it causes us to be susceptible to infection, hyper-sensitivity and many unfavorable skin conditions like acne, eczema, rosacea, psoriasis and contact dermatitis.
Signs of a damaged skin barrier are dryness, flakiness, erythema, inflammation and breakouts. Certain sensations like burning or itching are also common, as well as a “tight” or “prickly” feeling. When our barrier is compromised it makes us more intolerant to skincare products, and you may feel these sensations when using them.
My first recommendation is to seek out a specialized skincare provider. Hyper-sensitivity is a niche that many professionals don’t understand. A specialized professional will eliminate the guess work, and they’ll save you from buying countless products that won’t give you results, or may make your condition worse. Skin sensitivity specialists can also provide de-sensitizing skin treatments that strengthen your skin from the inside out. They’ll bring down the inflammation, soothe the skin and relieve the discomfort.
To improve your skin’s barrier from home, follow these steps:
Process of elimination. Avoid or cut back on harsh actives. If you have acne, the usage of acids are necessary, but you can over treat the skin. Overusing acids can disrupt the cellular barrier, contributing to worse break-outs. If you have eczema or hyper-sensitive skin, acids and strong exfoliants need to be completely removed from your routine.
Use a gentle, non-foaming and sulfate-free cleanser to avoid stripping the skin of it’s essential oils. Consider a probiotic cleanser, which can introduce healthy bacteria to aid in the skin’s microbiome.
Use a toner. Toners protect the pH of your skin, ensuring they are strong enough to fight off bacteria. It’s also a weightless way to incorporate more hydration and soothing ingredients.
Use a calming serum. A serum is your corrective tool. This is what will reduce the redness (erythema), inflammation and discomfort. For acne, look for ingredients like hyaluronic acid, chlorophyl, zinc, B3 (niacinamide), calendula, and bisobolol. For hyper-sensitive skin, look for urea, B5 (panthenol), vitamin e, allantoin, chamomile, cortisone, licorice root and colloidal oatmeal. Honey, aloe vera and green tea are beneficial for both as well.
Hydrate and moisturize. Use moisturizers with humectants and emollients to boost hydration and prevent trans epidermal water loss (tewl).
Use a barrier repair product. This usually comes in the form of a serum or treatment oil, and is often used after the moisturizer as an additional “sealing” agent. Look for products with ceramides, silicones, fatty acids (omegas) and cholesterol to rebuild the lipid layer.
Use SPF. Sunscreen prevents further damage, which allows the skin to heal. Zinc Oxide also has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. If you have acne, you will have to make sure it’s a noncomedogenic formulation. I am a personal fan of powder based spfs.
Pair the above with a low inflammatory diet, an increase in internal hydration and consume more omegas. Consider drinking alkaline or lemon water on a regular basis to help neutralize the pH in your gut. This increases your natural immunity, digestion, and gut health - which is also vital for your skin’s health.
And lastly, be kind to yourself. When we struggle with skin conditions, especially if they are on our face and painful, it’s difficult to not be depressed or stressed about it. Decreasing stress levels will have an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, and can also be a main contributor to acne or sensitivity.
